Love the depth of detail here, Sam. Thanks very much for that. I think you've finally pushed me over the edge to make my own miso. I've been hovering since I read the Art of Fermentation but now I'm convinced.
I'm so glad you found it useful and encouraging. It's a different approach to a lot of fermentation and has a lot of variables even some masterclasses neglect to mention. So I hope this article covers every possible concern and technique to help you make the best miso possible.
Sam, do you think vacuum sealing it would work? I've found some spots of fluffy (I'm assuming) mold in the surface of the paper, even with wasabi. Just thinking about experimenting...
Sometimes, during the warmer months, mould can start growing slowly. I’d replace the paper and add fresh wasabi. Check the surface of the miso and make sure it’s smooth and patted down. If there’s any sign of mould on the miso, remove it with a clean spoon and discard. Smooth the surface off again afterwards.
I’d avoid a vacuum bag as the miso can carbonate under pressure and this will impart unpleasant flavour. Instead, once you’ve repacked the paper and wasabi, and covered the mouth of the jar with cling film and the lid (as before), move it somewhere cooler until winter. Unlike a lot of fermentation, miso doesn’t rely on active microbes as much as it does their remaining enzymes. So you’re fine to keep it cooler than you would other ferments. This will help prevent mould. I hope that helps!
Yes! And it's amazing the difference in final flavour. The subtle composition of proteins and starches between different peas and beans lead to a spectrum of flavours. This leads to truly unique miso that reflects your local crops as an expression of sweetness and umami.
Thanks for sharing this, Sam. I'm very keen to try the wasabi trick with my next misos!
I had a question about the plastic wrap / closure of your process - I had heard that miso benefits from both aerobic and anaerobic activity, for example, by having a cloth over a wide-mouth vessel, yeasts can respire at the surface, whereas the lactic acid bacteria can ferment anaerobically beneath the pool of tamari (aided by weights). With Noma's approach of a cloth top, plastic wrap and weights, they seem to promote anaerobic fermentation with the cloth on top, but hinder it with the plastic wrap and weights on top, which I was a little confused by. With your technique, I suppose by allowing air into the jar, the anti-mould wasabi compounds would escape faster and the efficacy would be shorter-lived. I wondered if you have any thoughts on all of this, and whether your approach allows any oxygen into the fermentation vessel with the cling film / lid system, and if not, whether there is a reason for this from a microbial environment standpoint?
If you're getting great results without weights, this seems to be a much simpler and more space-efficient approach, and I'll certainly be giving it a go. Thanks again for spreading all of your learnings!
Hi Rob, some great questions and considerations. From my teachings and experience in miso, it’s less the case that the ferment requires oxygen, and more the case that you don’t want a build up of carbon dioxide to the point of carbonation. Carbonation has a detrimental effect on the process and flavour, but you don’t need to let the ferment access oxygen unless you’ve added too much water and allowed yeast to produce ethanol. In that case, oxygen is a good counter as acetic acid bacteria can set to work and counter the yeast. My approach, which is very much modelled on Haruko’s technique, has a focus on getting the right moisture content upfront. You can use a hybrid technique and still add a weight on top and produce tamari, then place parchment and wasabi on top of the weight. But I’d still cover the top with cling film and rest a lid on top. Doing this creates a close enough seal that the wasabi vapour doesn’t escape (you won’t be able to smell it once the jar is shut). But there’s just enough wiggle room that carbon dioxide can push its way out before the pressure gets too much.
This is wonderful! Very interested in trying out the wasabi tip and seeing where else in my kitchen I can put a dollop of wasabi to deter moulds… keep the niche and not so niche topics coming!
Such an interesting process. I make cheese, so the notion of enzymatic activity etc isn’t new to me. But now I’m inspired to have a go with miso. I wonder as an aside whether the wasabi trick could be used when fermenting pickles as well, as no matter how well I cover the pickles with brine, scum/mould always seems to develop on the surface.
Actually tried this with some sauerkraut I made which after a couple of months seemed to be developing a wee bit of mould. I just got some scrunched up baking paper and put it on top of the cabbage with a dollop of wasabi - mould gone. amazing!
I love miso and find your exploration fascinating. I make Kombucha and some other easy ferments. While not a scientist or chef, producing the exact same results is impossible for me. Here lies the beauty. The slight variances in home made fermented foods is a good thing for your gut. The same old (predictable) anything makes for a less robust microbiome. I read something like that years ago and I now love creating without comparison or expectation. For me it's all good, interesting, fun, healthy and mostly tasty. Good luck!
I couldn't agree more, and the same is true for foraging. Everyone I speak to says this year is awful for plumes and damsons but great for mushrooms. The reserve was true last year, so it is to be expected. When it comes to all things living, especially fermented, there's a reason we take note of the vintage.
Thanks so much for this. I love miso but had never really considered making it myself. I like the idea very much. Not least to know exactly what is in it - as misos in the shops (even the specialist Asian ones) can be quite confusing. Your post is extremely helpful.
Thanks so much for this fabulous article and all of the good information. I also really appreciate that you include an audio version for those of us who like to listen while we paint or sew or drive!
thank you, this is amazing. like others, i’ve also wanted to make my own miso for some time but, despite being quite adventurous in my other fermentation adventures so far, miso has seemed a bit of a step further. this makes the process so straightforward and achievable, and the tips to head of potential problems before they start are fantastic.
really appreciate the detail as well as the explanations behind why you use certain techniques, rather than simply listing the techniques.
You’re very welcome. I always find it easier to learn and then adapt techniques when you understand the why and the how. So I always share as much detail and examples as I can!
Amazing Sam. Thank you. The wasabi trick is fascinating. I sadly had to throw out my last and only attempt at miso making. I could not keep up with the mold growth. You have inspired me to give it a try again especially when my fava beans are almost ready for harvest. Is this recipe in your new book?
It can be very disheartening, but the wasabi really helps. There is a big recipe section on miso in my new book, as well as many other koji based recipes such as shoyu, mirin, amazake, and ship koji. All of them explained fully and adapted to home kitchens.
Great question! And I adore carlin peas, which I've used to make shoyu (a soy sauce made with beans/peas and wheat). I was particularly interested in it as it comes from a similar region of England as my grandparents! The different types and shade of miso come from different salt/beans/koji ratios. Some are made with barley koji instead of rice, as barley has more protein which leads to a deeper, red umami miso (such as mugi). Some are made by growing koji on the beans and rice together, such as hatcho miso. Different types of beans and peas will produce different characteristics in miso too, so you have trial all sorts with this recipe by swapping out the peas and beans.
I am SO excited about this post. I've made winter miso with dried black beans and encountered exactly the hurdles you discussed. I'm very excited to move forward with my miso practice and learning and would definitely be interested in learning the at-home koji method. thank you for all you do. I've been making honey fermented garlic for years and teaching others in small workshops- I call it my secret ingredient for salad dressing...and everything else! THANK YOU SAM!
Love the depth of detail here, Sam. Thanks very much for that. I think you've finally pushed me over the edge to make my own miso. I've been hovering since I read the Art of Fermentation but now I'm convinced.
I'm so glad you found it useful and encouraging. It's a different approach to a lot of fermentation and has a lot of variables even some masterclasses neglect to mention. So I hope this article covers every possible concern and technique to help you make the best miso possible.
Sam, do you think vacuum sealing it would work? I've found some spots of fluffy (I'm assuming) mold in the surface of the paper, even with wasabi. Just thinking about experimenting...
Sometimes, during the warmer months, mould can start growing slowly. I’d replace the paper and add fresh wasabi. Check the surface of the miso and make sure it’s smooth and patted down. If there’s any sign of mould on the miso, remove it with a clean spoon and discard. Smooth the surface off again afterwards.
I’d avoid a vacuum bag as the miso can carbonate under pressure and this will impart unpleasant flavour. Instead, once you’ve repacked the paper and wasabi, and covered the mouth of the jar with cling film and the lid (as before), move it somewhere cooler until winter. Unlike a lot of fermentation, miso doesn’t rely on active microbes as much as it does their remaining enzymes. So you’re fine to keep it cooler than you would other ferments. This will help prevent mould. I hope that helps!
Fascinating! So you can use any kind of pea or bean?
Yes! And it's amazing the difference in final flavour. The subtle composition of proteins and starches between different peas and beans lead to a spectrum of flavours. This leads to truly unique miso that reflects your local crops as an expression of sweetness and umami.
Please show us how to make homemade koji rice!
Shall do!
Thanks for sharing this, Sam. I'm very keen to try the wasabi trick with my next misos!
I had a question about the plastic wrap / closure of your process - I had heard that miso benefits from both aerobic and anaerobic activity, for example, by having a cloth over a wide-mouth vessel, yeasts can respire at the surface, whereas the lactic acid bacteria can ferment anaerobically beneath the pool of tamari (aided by weights). With Noma's approach of a cloth top, plastic wrap and weights, they seem to promote anaerobic fermentation with the cloth on top, but hinder it with the plastic wrap and weights on top, which I was a little confused by. With your technique, I suppose by allowing air into the jar, the anti-mould wasabi compounds would escape faster and the efficacy would be shorter-lived. I wondered if you have any thoughts on all of this, and whether your approach allows any oxygen into the fermentation vessel with the cling film / lid system, and if not, whether there is a reason for this from a microbial environment standpoint?
If you're getting great results without weights, this seems to be a much simpler and more space-efficient approach, and I'll certainly be giving it a go. Thanks again for spreading all of your learnings!
Hi Rob, some great questions and considerations. From my teachings and experience in miso, it’s less the case that the ferment requires oxygen, and more the case that you don’t want a build up of carbon dioxide to the point of carbonation. Carbonation has a detrimental effect on the process and flavour, but you don’t need to let the ferment access oxygen unless you’ve added too much water and allowed yeast to produce ethanol. In that case, oxygen is a good counter as acetic acid bacteria can set to work and counter the yeast. My approach, which is very much modelled on Haruko’s technique, has a focus on getting the right moisture content upfront. You can use a hybrid technique and still add a weight on top and produce tamari, then place parchment and wasabi on top of the weight. But I’d still cover the top with cling film and rest a lid on top. Doing this creates a close enough seal that the wasabi vapour doesn’t escape (you won’t be able to smell it once the jar is shut). But there’s just enough wiggle room that carbon dioxide can push its way out before the pressure gets too much.
Thanks Sam, very interesting. Looking forward to trying this!
Would the wasabi technique still work with fermenting lids that have an airlock or vent?
This is wonderful! Very interested in trying out the wasabi tip and seeing where else in my kitchen I can put a dollop of wasabi to deter moulds… keep the niche and not so niche topics coming!
Can do!
Fascinating and really accessible writing, thanks Sam.
Thanks! I’m glad you think so, this type of content still feels very new!
Wow what an amazing passionate, informative and in-depth article. You’ve spurred me on to add miso making to my own fermentation practice.
Such an interesting process. I make cheese, so the notion of enzymatic activity etc isn’t new to me. But now I’m inspired to have a go with miso. I wonder as an aside whether the wasabi trick could be used when fermenting pickles as well, as no matter how well I cover the pickles with brine, scum/mould always seems to develop on the surface.
I’d imagine if you have some way of floating the wasabi… there’s a huge amount of applications I can imagine for it!
Actually tried this with some sauerkraut I made which after a couple of months seemed to be developing a wee bit of mould. I just got some scrunched up baking paper and put it on top of the cabbage with a dollop of wasabi - mould gone. amazing!
I thought the same with jam!
I love miso and find your exploration fascinating. I make Kombucha and some other easy ferments. While not a scientist or chef, producing the exact same results is impossible for me. Here lies the beauty. The slight variances in home made fermented foods is a good thing for your gut. The same old (predictable) anything makes for a less robust microbiome. I read something like that years ago and I now love creating without comparison or expectation. For me it's all good, interesting, fun, healthy and mostly tasty. Good luck!
I couldn't agree more, and the same is true for foraging. Everyone I speak to says this year is awful for plumes and damsons but great for mushrooms. The reserve was true last year, so it is to be expected. When it comes to all things living, especially fermented, there's a reason we take note of the vintage.
Thanks so much for this. I love miso but had never really considered making it myself. I like the idea very much. Not least to know exactly what is in it - as misos in the shops (even the specialist Asian ones) can be quite confusing. Your post is extremely helpful.
I’m glad I could help!
Thanks so much for this fabulous article and all of the good information. I also really appreciate that you include an audio version for those of us who like to listen while we paint or sew or drive!
I’m so glad! I love listening to audio books so this is my way to add to that world.
Thank you, Chef!
You're very welcome!
thank you, this is amazing. like others, i’ve also wanted to make my own miso for some time but, despite being quite adventurous in my other fermentation adventures so far, miso has seemed a bit of a step further. this makes the process so straightforward and achievable, and the tips to head of potential problems before they start are fantastic.
really appreciate the detail as well as the explanations behind why you use certain techniques, rather than simply listing the techniques.
You’re very welcome. I always find it easier to learn and then adapt techniques when you understand the why and the how. So I always share as much detail and examples as I can!
Amazing Sam. Thank you. The wasabi trick is fascinating. I sadly had to throw out my last and only attempt at miso making. I could not keep up with the mold growth. You have inspired me to give it a try again especially when my fava beans are almost ready for harvest. Is this recipe in your new book?
It can be very disheartening, but the wasabi really helps. There is a big recipe section on miso in my new book, as well as many other koji based recipes such as shoyu, mirin, amazake, and ship koji. All of them explained fully and adapted to home kitchens.
Fascinating! Thank you.
So is the difference between white and dark miso just the colour of the beans you started with?
I have grown a trial patch of carlin peas this year, now I'm thinking about making miso with them since there's not enough to do much else.
Great question! And I adore carlin peas, which I've used to make shoyu (a soy sauce made with beans/peas and wheat). I was particularly interested in it as it comes from a similar region of England as my grandparents! The different types and shade of miso come from different salt/beans/koji ratios. Some are made with barley koji instead of rice, as barley has more protein which leads to a deeper, red umami miso (such as mugi). Some are made by growing koji on the beans and rice together, such as hatcho miso. Different types of beans and peas will produce different characteristics in miso too, so you have trial all sorts with this recipe by swapping out the peas and beans.
Thank you. So generous with your knowledge.
I am SO excited about this post. I've made winter miso with dried black beans and encountered exactly the hurdles you discussed. I'm very excited to move forward with my miso practice and learning and would definitely be interested in learning the at-home koji method. thank you for all you do. I've been making honey fermented garlic for years and teaching others in small workshops- I call it my secret ingredient for salad dressing...and everything else! THANK YOU SAM!