The Black Butter Club

The Black Butter Club

Share this post

The Black Butter Club
The Black Butter Club
Vegetarian Kimchi Tartiflette

Vegetarian Kimchi Tartiflette

A Fermenter’s Spin On A French Classic | Warming, Hearty, Molten

Sam Cooper's avatar
Sam Cooper
Jan 13, 2025
∙ Paid
34

Share this post

The Black Butter Club
The Black Butter Club
Vegetarian Kimchi Tartiflette
6
3
Share
Upgrade to paid to play voiceover

As you may have seen in a previous newsletter, Huw and I have started work on our next authorial adventure together, following last year and the publication of The Self-Sufficiency Garden. As part of our arrangement with our publisher, DK, we are allowed to serialise our writing here on Substack as we chip away at the mammoth project of writing our next book (well, half each at least, which is both easier and more difficult. Fewer words, but more compromising. It’s a good job we work well together!)

The serialisation of the next book will be for paid members only but won’t occupy a regular slot in my newsletters. I’ll share them once in a while as a thank you for paid members and their support of my work. The benefit is that my word count is higher here! So I’ll be able to share more detail and process. On the other hand, the book will have fewer dyslexic outbursts cunningly disguised as typos. These recipes will also likely be focused on a range of techniques, from preserving and cooking, to of course fermentation. So there will be more variety, showing you some of my favourite ways to use garden produce to feed yourself and your loved ones.

Firstly, my introduction to the kitchen looks likely to be cut from the book to make room for more garden information. I don’t mind at all, after all, the better the ingredients the tastier the kitchen delights. But, in case you wanted to read it, I thought I’d share it below:

“A small step for us, but a giant leap for our produce, the kitchen is the beating heart of a home. A place of craft, artistry, sustenance, and satiation. A good home cook is a versatile master, sympathetic to the nature of their ingredients and needs of their household.

With homegrown produce, we are dealing with the most delicious, healthy ingredients. From harvest to plate, there is a single guiding principle underlying each and every technique and recipe in this book: Do enough, no more, no less. I firmly believe that elegant pairings and simple techniques are all that is required to unlock the beauty of what nature has already provided. You won’t find exotic produce or lengthy ingredients lists. Without fuss or show, the following recipes are designed to make good, honest food, and bring the beauty of your garden to your dinner plate.

This is because I am aware that, like me, you don’t have all the time and money in the world to dedicate to meals. But, if you’re expecting the same old stews, pies, and chutneys we’ve all seen a thousand times, you’re in for a treat. In this book, I will demonstrate techniques you’ve likely never seen before, and introduce you to the ways I squeeze every last drop of flavour before they return to the compost bin.

Tips Down.

There is one thing that will dramatically speed up your time spent in the kitchen, and it isn’t some newfangled invention or money hungry gadget. Knife skills. Being proficient with a kitchen knife makes work quick, efficient, and safe. It also means you can start cooking prior to preparing all your ingredients.

The first cut should always aim to provide a flat surface on your ingredient to stabilise it on the chopping board. For most produce, this means cut it in half from root to top.

It might feel unnatural at first, but keep the tip of your blade against the chopping board as you work, pivoting around this point as you move the handle up and down to chop. This anchors the knife in place, making it safer for you to move quickly without risk of injury. Holding your ingredients in your non-dominant hand, keep them beneath your palm, with your palm flat to the chopping board, and hook your fingers over them. With your finger tips pointing down, line up the broad side of the blade against the back of your fingers. Now, both hands work together to control each motion. Your dominant hand moves the blade up and down, whilst your other hand moves backwards, revealing the amount of ingredient you wish to chop. The blade should always remain in contact with both the board and your hand, and as long as your fingers remain hooked, nothing besides vegetables should be cut.”

Just a quick note to say that if you enjoy the voiceovers, prerelease recipes for future books, and direct messages / group chat with myself and other likeminded fermenters, cooks, chefs, and growers, consider becoming a paid member and join our little community here on Substack. Or simply join for free and enjoy 90% of what I post.


Kimchi Tartiflette

Served with a radicchio, lettuce, and walnuts, and a horseradish and apple winter slaw.

This vegetarian version of a winter warmer is a cheesy tartiflette that works with any root vegetable or cauliflower. For a tangy contrast, add chopped pickled cucumbers or kimchi. Traditionally made with meltable (Reblochon) cheese, Saval, Comte, or Raclette are also suitable, along with soft goats cheeses. Don’t remove the rinds if edible. They crisp up nicely when cooked and provide delicious chewy bits.

If you want to make this dish a true show stopper, feel free to go full Pixar Ratatouille with your vegetables. I prefer the texture of chunkier pieces which also allows the juices from the kimchi brine to flow freely with the cheese and cream.

If you’re after a plantbased version of this recipe, the butter, cream, and cheese can all be replaced with plantbased alternatives. Just make sure the vegan cheese you use is meltable and not one of those spreadable soft ones (I’ve found they tend to split and go greasy).

Keep reading with a 7-day free trial

Subscribe to The Black Butter Club to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.

Already a paid subscriber? Sign in
© 2025 Sam Cooper
Privacy ∙ Terms ∙ Collection notice
Start writingGet the app
Substack is the home for great culture

Share